Dealing With Corrosion on Rims: The Updated Guide.
Corrosion on rims is a common issue that can compromise both the look and performance of your vehicle. It happens when the metal comes into contact with moisture and air, starting a chemical reaction that eats away at the surface. Really, not a good sight.
Addressing corrosion as soon as you notice it prevents further damage that can be costly to repair. We’re talking pitting, flaking, and even structural damage if left untreated.
I’m here to walk you through a detailed, step-by-step restoration process. By the end, you’ll know exactly how to tackle corrosion without breaking a sweat.
For a deep introduction into all the products you’ll need, plus more background info, check out my older article on the subject. It’s packed with everything you need to know. – Just click the link here.
Now, before restoring our rims, let’s first understand what corrosion is really and why it happens.
Buckle up, it’s gonna be a smooth ride, I promise!
Understanding Corrosion: Types and Causes
Corrosion isn’t created equal.
There are different types that you need to recognize — surface, pitting, & galvanic are the main ones.
- Surface corrosion is the common kind. It appears as rust on the rim’s exterior.
Why it happens: This is the most common type of corrosion and occurs when the protective layer on the metal rim, like the paint for example, is damaged or wears away. This exposure to air and moisture leads to the formation of rust on the surface. Surface corrosion often starts as small spots or discoloration and can spread if not attended in time.
- Pitting is more aggressive, leading to small, deep holes in the metal.
Why it happens: Pitting is a more severe form of corrosion that results in the formation of small, deep pits or holes in the metal. This occurs when the protective surface is compromised, allowing corrosive elements, like road salt or acidic substances, to penetrate. Pitting is more localized and can be more damaging because it penetrates deeper into the metal, weakening it.
- Galvanic corrosion happens when two metals in contact start reacting with electrolytes like salty water, speeding up the damage.
Why it happens: Galvanic corrosion occurs when two different types of metal are in contact with each other in the presence of an electrolyte, such as salty water. The difference in electrical potential between the metals causes one to corrode faster than the other. This often happens when rims made of one metal are attached with bolts or components made from another metal, creating a reaction that accelerates the corrosion process.
Understanding why corrosion happens makes dealing with it less of a mystery. That’s why it is important to know what you are dealing with exactly.
Environmental factors like rain, snow, and salty roads are big contributors. But why?
Water is a key component in the rusting process. When rims are frequently exposed to rain or high humidity, they can start to corrode, especially if there are already scratches or damages to the protective coatings. Water can penetrate these damaged areas, leading to surface corrosion.
And about the salty roads, like I mentioned above, salt acts as an electrolyte, accelerating the corrosion process. The combination of moisture and salt can quickly lead to both surface and pitting corrosion. That’s why living near the coast can ramp up the risk, thanks to salty sea air.
And to add more oil to the flame, everyday wear and tear, plus improper storage, can also worsen the situation. Even the best rims out there aren’t immune.
Do you want to learn how to properly store your tires? Click on this link!
But hey, corrosion isn’t just something that looks ugly. It can seriously impact your car’s performance and safety. It’s not just about aesthetics here – corrosion can weaken the structure of the rims, leading to potential failures on the road. Regular checks can save you a headache later.
The good news? We are going to restore those rims to their former glory in a brief!
Preparing Our Equipment.
Before you start restoring your rims, you need to gather the right tools and materials. Trust me, having everything ready makes the work smoother and quicker.
Let’s say a few words about what you’ll need. I won’t stop on the details here.
Remember, all the specific products you need are detailed in my older article, so give that a look if you need the exact names and brands. – click on the link here.
Here is a brief list of everything. Note: not everything is a must-have, so you don’t have to spend money on something you won’t need. Some of those tools and chemicals are used just on some occasions – I’ve marked them with one *, so you’ll know.
Restoration Tools:
- Wheel and Tire Cleaner. – Used to clean the tires.
- *Rust Converter – To convert and stabilize the rust (If there are areas of deep corrosion).
- Wheel wax. – To apply a protective barrier at the end of the restoration process.
- Sanding blocks/paper (Different sizes). – Used to smoothen the corroded areas.
- *A Wire Brush – You’ll need it only if the old paint must be scrapped.
- *Masking Tape – To separate the tire from the rim if painting is necessary.
- *Primer and Paint – If painting is necessary.
Safety Equipment:
- Gloves
- Goggles
- Mask
Additional Tools:
- Edgeless Towel
- Microfiber Towel
- Small Brush
- Applicator or Foam Pad
Preparation for Rim Restoration
So, as everyone says: safety first!
With the fear of repeating a cliche, I’m going to say it anyways: always wear a pair of gloves, goggles, and a mask. You don’t want any harmful chemicals or debris getting into your eyes or lungs. Believe me, you are not going to like the feel of having something inside your eye, or that powder as you start sanding the corrosion inside your lungs. Work in a well-ventilated area to keep the fumes at bay.
1. Anyways, start with a thorough inspection.
Check your rims for the extent of the corrosion damage. This helps you decide how deep you’ll need to go with your sanding and cleaning. Take note of any deep pits or areas where the metal seems particularly compromised.
2. Next, clean off all the dirt and grime.
Wash the damaged wheel well, using the wheel cleaner to get rid of any dirt and filth. This step is important because you don’t want any dirt interfering with your restoration process. If you are using the Adam’s wheel cleaner, you can watch the video below for a full walk-through.
3. Finally, strip the rim of its existing paint and any remaining rust.
*Note: this step is necessary ONLY if the damage is deep and scrapping the paint is vital.
Using a chemical paint stripper can help loosen up the old paint, making it easier to remove. A wire brush or power sander can effectively take care of stubborn rust spots. Your goal is to get down to bare metal, ensuring a smooth surface for the next steps.
Step-by-Step Restoration Process
Now that you’ve prepped your rims, it’s time to start the actual restoration process. The following steps will guide you in bringing those rims back to life.
1. Start with sanding.
You’ll need various grades of sandpaper, starting with a 80 or 120 to remove the rust and moving to a finer grit of 220 for a smooth finish. Sand in a circular motion for even results. Keep at it until you’ve got a clean, smooth surface. Clean using a clean cloth or rag to remove any dust particles.
You’ll have to make sure all rust is gone, because if you leave any, it will start spreading again. You can even apply the rust converter over the cleared area, but make sure you have your paint ready, as it will make the area black.
See the instructions if painting is necessary, and if not, skip to the waxing part.
2. Treating Deep Corrosion.
If you encounter areas of severe corrosion that cannot be fully removed by sanding, you should apply a rust converter.
- Start by removing the old paint from the affected area, as the corrosion is severe. Use the wire brush for this, but first, test the brush on a small spot to make sure it won’t damage your rim.
Use gentle pressure and work carefully, focusing on removing the paint without scratching the metal. Scrape away until you reach bare metal. Don’t worry, we’ll repaint it later in the process. - Now, using the sanding blocks, smoothen the area where the paint was scrapped, as we are going to need a smooth surface. At the end, wipe with a cloth.
- Put on some gloves and a mask, shake the rust converter can for a few seconds, then firmly spray over the surface where you have removed the rust, then leave it to dry. The rust converter makes the area black.
3. Applying The Primer.
Once the anti-corrosion treatment is set, it’s time to prime the rim. Use a high-quality primer of your choice, designed for metal surfaces. This creates a protective layer and helps paint adhere better. Apply the primer in thin, even coats. Allow each coat to dry according to the primer instructions before applying the next one.
4. Painting.
Now for the fun part—painting! Choose a durable, weather-resistant paint, preferably something designed for rims. Apply the paint in thin, even layers to avoid drips and ensure full coverage. Let each layer dry completely before applying another. This might take a few coats, but patience is important here.
Now, if you wish to avoid painting on the tire, cover the border of the tire using the tape. It will save you a lot of headaches.
5. Waxing.
Once the paint is fully dry, finish with the wax. This adds an extra layer of protection against future corrosion and gives your rims a nice glossy finish.
Apply it evenly using a foam pad, allowing ample drying time between coats. Just like you did with the primer.
After this, you can reassemble the rims and give them a final inspection to ensure everything looks and feels solid.
Maintenance and Prevention Tips
Regular maintenance is essential to keeping your rims looking fresh and free from future corrosion. A little bit of effort goes a long way in prolonging the life of your rims.
- First, give your rims a good wash on a regular basis. Use a soft-bristled brush and the Adam’s wheel cleaner to get rid of dirt and grime. You can refer to the video above for detailed instructions.
- After washing, make sure to dry the rims completely. Moisture is the enemy, and leaving them wet can trigger new corrosion. A microfiber cloth works great for this job.
- Applying a layer wax every few months can add an extra line of defense against corrosion. The sealant acts like an invisible shield, keeping moisture and contaminants at bay.
- Store your vehicle properly. If you live in an area with harsh winters, consider removing and storing your rims indoors during the off-season. At the very least, give them a good clean and apply a protective cover.
- Inspect your rims periodically for signs of wear and tear, even if they look fine at first glance. Early detection can save you from bigger problems down the road.
Hi. I think that corrosion on Wheels is definitely an annoying thing that we all have to deal with. Like you said there are causes and it’s a common issue basically a chemical reaction that eats away at the service. And it’s not attractive at all. But you can at least prevent further damage and it can get costly if you don’t. So you did an awesome job here. Thanks a lot
Hey, Jake! Thank you for the comment and the kind words!
You are right, sometimes preventing is the best weapon you can use.
Great guide on dealing with corrosion on rims!
I found your tips on prevention and treatment really practical and insightful. I’ve dealt with rim corrosion on my own vehicle, and I agree that regular cleaning and application of protective coatings can make a huge difference in extending the life of your rims.
One question I have is about the best methods for treating severe corrosion. In my experience, it can sometimes be challenging to completely remove rust, especially if it’s deeply embedded. Do you have any recommendations for products or techniques that work particularly well for more advanced cases?
Additionally, I’d love to hear your thoughts on how weather conditions (like salt exposure during winter) impact corrosion rates and what extra precautions might be needed in those situations.
Thanks for sharing such a detailed and helpful guide!
Thanks so much for your feedback!
I’m glad you found the guide practical and that you’ve had success with regular cleaning and protective coatings—those small steps really do go a long way.
For severe corrosion, you’re right—it can be tricky to tackle. For deep, stubborn rust, using a rust converter is a great first step. It transforms rust into a stable compound, making it easier to manage. After that, a heavy-duty rust remover, combined with some serious elbow grease or even a wire brush, can help get the rest. Finishing off with a quality primer and paint ensures a good seal and protection moving forward.
As for weather conditions, especially with salt exposure in winter, they definitely accelerate corrosion. In those cases, frequent washing to remove salt, followed by applying a protective wax or sealant, is crucial. Some people even opt for a more strong undercoating treatment to protect the rims and undercarriage from the harsh elements.
Thanks for the great questions, and I hope these tips help! Feel free to reach out if you have more questions, and good luck with keeping your rims in top shape!
Thank you so much for your kind words! I’m really glad you found the post helpful. Corrosion can be such a headache, so it’s awesome to hear that the guide and tips resonated with you. The rust converter is definitely a game-changer for those deeper issues, and I’m thrilled that you found that tip useful.
Feel free to reach out if you have any questions when you start working on your rims. I’m here to help, and I’d love to hear how it goes.
Hi Nikolay,
I just read your guide on dealing with corrosion on rims and I have to say, it was super helpful! I used to think rust was just a cosmetic issue, but you opened my eyes to the potential dangers it poses to a vehicle’s structural integrity. Your guide was not only informative but also engaging and easy to follow.
Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Eric
Hi Eric,
Thank you so much for your kind words! I’m thrilled to hear that the guide was both helpful and engaging for you. Rust can definitely be more than just a cosmetic issue, and I’m glad the guide helped shed some light on the importance of keeping those rims in check. Your feedback means a lot—I’m always here to share whatever expertise I can. Thanks again, and happy driving!
Best,
Nikolay
This guide is like the superhero manual for anyone battling the evil forces of rim corrosion! It’s a relatable struggle—one day your rims are shining bright, and the next, they’re looking like they’ve survived a zombie apocalypse. I’ve been there, and it’s not pretty! The tips here are spot-on, especially the emphasis on regular cleaning. I learned the hard way that neglecting your rims is like letting rust have a party. Thanks for the helpful advice! Now, off to give my wheels some TLC!
Hey, Cornelius!
I’m so glad you enjoyed the guide—love the superhero analogy! You’re absolutely right, rim corrosion can really turn those once-glorious wheels into something out of a horror movie if we’re not careful. Regular cleaning is definitely the secret weapon in keeping that rust at bay. Sounds like your rims are in good hands now, ready for their well-deserved TLC.
Thanks for the awesome feedback!
HI!
This guide is incredibly thorough and helpful for anyone dealing with rim corrosion. I appreciate the detailed breakdown of the different types of corrosion and the step-by-step restoration process. The emphasis on proper equipment and safety is also spot on—safety should always come first.
How often should rims be inspected for corrosion to catch any early signs before they become severe?
– Scott
Hey Scott!
Thanks a ton for your kind words! I’m thrilled to hear that you found the guide helpful. You’re absolutely right—keeping safety at the forefront is key when dealing with rim corrosion (or anything car-related, really).
As for how often you should inspect your rims, it’s a good idea to give them a thorough check every time you do a tire rotation, which is usually around every 5,000 (8,000 km) to 7,500 miles (12,000 km). However, if you live in an area with harsh winters, salty roads, or near the coast where salt air is a factor, you might want to inspect them a bit more frequently. Catching corrosion early can save you a lot of headaches down the road!
Thanks again for reading, and feel free to reach out if you have any more questions!